Here is a very interesting Reference 6204 with a case number that was numbered after the Submariner 6205 was already introduced. Even more striking is the model name "Sub-Aqua." printed on the dial. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the "Sub-Aqua" was produced for the UK market. The "Sub-Aqua" lettering is printed atop the lacquer layer, and appears to be a similar font and ink that was used for "Sumariner" models that followed shortly thereafter. In all other respects, the dial has all the same characteristics as the Submariner 6205 "Blank Dial." presented earlier.

Submariner 6204 - “Sub-Aqua” ca. 1954

Case No. 42,4xx


The dial has a coating of lacquer applied, but it appears to be thinner than coatings applied on later Submariner models such as the 6536-1 and 5508. After many decades, some of the lacquer has gassed out or oxidized, losing some of its gloss. This natural aging leaves a unique textured finish that has discolored to varying degrees.

Also known as a "Gilt" dial because of the gold writing, the lettering and graphics are actually a stencil of the brass dial plate underneath the paint layer (see illustration below). Another interesting dial characteristic on this model is the shape of the dial plate whose outer rim is rounded like a bull nose. This gives the dial a more dimensional appearance, especially under the domed crystal, reminiscent of a ship porthole.

The Radium luminous material, or "Lume," was hand applied. Although, it no longer glows in the dark, the Lume still reacts to UV light with a unique speckled glow that collectors have learned to recognize. Once the UV light is removed, the Lume stops glowing immediately. Radium has a much stronger Geiger counter reading than any other luminous marterial.

Note: This image was taken from a previous example.

The earliest Submariners references 6204 and 6205 hands are affectionately called "pencil hands" by collectors due to their shape. Made from a metal alloy that was gold-plated, they are flat on top, a design that also came to be known as "Gilt Hands." When the hands move about the face of the dial, the "Lollipop" sweep-seconds hand appears to lightly graze the "Chapter" ring of the minute track. When it briefly glides over the minute hand, they are perfectly aligned.

The brass bezel once had nickel plating that has oxidized or worn away with use. The early bezel has smaller knurling compared to later models.

The 6205 is powered by the Rolex A260 Automatic Movement.


The case number is 42,4xx which is lower than the last Submariner 6204 example but was made afterwards. The numbers are out of sequence because it was numbered after the 'reset' to 10000 that occurred after 999,999, circa 1954. The stainless steel case measures approximately 37.5mm wide sans crown, and is the same shape and size as the Submariner 6204. The sides have a light satin finish as well as the tops of lugs. The crown size is 6mm which is larger than the Submariner 6204. It has the well known "+" symbol ("Swiss Made") below the crown logo. The screw-on case back is rounded like a "bubble" to accommodate the A260 movement and its rotor. There is an engraving around the outer edge which reads "Rolex Oyster Case." The case uses a domed #16 acrylic crystal that fits all other Small Crowns, with the exception of the 6536/8.

The Submariner 6204/6205 was fitted with a spring loaded Swiss rivet bracelet was made for Rolex by world renowned Gay Frères. The 20mm fixed end links are typically marked "65" or "64" and the  clasp has a stamped quality control date code. is intended for informational purposes only and is in no way sponsored, endorsed,

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